On a tempering and bending line, those screen-printed logos, frits, and ceramic patterns have to dry fast enough to keep up with the furnace—no blistering, no pinholes, and no thermal stress. When the dryer can’t keep pace, you’re staring at rejects, line stoppages, and the added scrap hit of re-firing glass. We built this screen printing dryer to live inside actual glass plants, where cycle time and uptime are measured in seconds and dollars. What matters under the hood We use near-infrared (NIR) quartz heating modules to put the heat right into the printed layer, not the bulk glass. The response is immediate—full power in seconds—so you can hit those short drying windows without cooking the substrate. The heater layout is set up to create a uniform thermal field across the print area, which helps keep local hot spots from causing edge stress and micro-cracks. Control is straightforward: set the profile, and closed-loop feedback holds it steady, cycle after cycle. The modules are designed as drop-in replacements for common OEM dryer configurations, with standardized mounting and wiring. Why it fits the way glass lines run In glass processing, drying isn’t just about curing ink—it’s about protecting the next thermal steps. Fast, controlled drying keeps the print intact before tempering and bending, so you cut rework and keep the furnace fed. In practice, plants end up using less energy because NIR heats the coating directly, so you’re not dumping waste heat into the air and onto the conveyor. The payoff is fewer rejects from poor adhesion, pinholes, or print distortion—and fewer unplanned stops for cleaning and re-alignment. Maintenance is clean, too: the modular design lets you swap a module fast and get the line back up, instead of tearing the whole system down. Here’s what to keep straight NIR drying is line-of-sight, so print geometry and glass position have to stay consistent. If you get shadowing or spacing drift, drying turns uneven. We size the dryer to your print zone and conveyor width, and a simple fixture or guide is usually enough to keep spacing tight. And if your line runs multiple glass thicknesses, the profile needs adjusting. Thicker glass carries more thermal mass, so you have to tune the setpoint to fully cure the print without overheating the substrate.